I chose the Boss story to engage with, although many other German compa­nies prof­ited during the war years by exploita­tion, because Boss was a clothing manu­fac­turer; the idea that a costume doesn’t just provide a protec­tive layer but can also be a form of disguise, intrigued me. Hugo Ferdi­nand Boss made gentlemen’s suits in Metzingen, Germany until 1931. Later, when he became a Nazi party member, the firm made uniforms. Now the priva­tised and highly successful fashion house follows contem­po­rary trends that still conform to an average unifor­mity.

Tanya Ury

Tanya Ury has been working on the research project Who’s Boss – Empire’s New Clothes, as PhD. in Human­i­ties candi­date at Leiden Univer­sity, Insti­tute for Cultural Disci­plines (NL) since 2010.

Who’s Boss — a collec­tion of works:


Solo Exhi­bi­tions

2002 Fashion Victim, Jacob’s Ladder (solo), Hochbunker Cologne-Ehren­feld (9th Nov. 2002 Cologne’s Long Museum’s Night) (D)
 

2006 (26.7. – 9.8.) Solo exhi­bi­tion, Seminar in the exhi­bi­tion, Tüzraktér Inde­pen­dent Cultural Centre, Budapest (HU)

2006 (3.11. – 4.11.) Solo exhi­bi­tion, 9 – 12 hours work­shop with pupils from the Anne-Frank-Realschule (secondary modern). Opening 20 Uhr 3.11., Bochumer Kulturrat, (D)
 www​.kulturrat​-bochum​.de, www​.ruhr​-guide​.de, www.j‑comm.de, www​.kijukuma​.de

2014 (13.2. – 21.4.) Tanya Ury’s Hair Shirt Army, an instal­la­tion, spon­sored by the Kulturamt (Art’s Council Cologne), will be presented for the first time in the crypt of EL-DE-Haus, the Nazi Docu­men­ta­tion Centre, Cologne (D), opening 7pm, 13th February, with an intro­duc­tion by Professor Dr. Ernst van Alphen, Leiden Univer­sity (NL). A programme of events includes a perfor­mance concert archive burn out with Suspended Beliefs”, impro­vised poetry with impro­vised music: Tanya Ury (voice), Gernot Bogumil (trumpet), Kasander Nilist (double bass), Hans Salz (percus­sion)

Group Exhi­bi­tions

2004 Hair Shirt, Dress­codes, group exhi­bi­tion, Kunstverein Neuhausen (D)

2005 Stets gern für Sie beschäftigt…” (“Always glad to be of service …”), ifa Galerie, group exhi­bi­tion, Berlin (D)

2005 Stets gern für Sie beschäftigt…” (“Always glad to be of service…”), group exhi­bi­tion, Prora Doku­men­ta­tion­szen­trum, Rügen (D)

2005 Stets gern für Sie beschäftigt…” (“Always glad to be of service…”), Kunstverein Rosen­heim (D) (Art Centre), group exhi­bi­tion, Opening 9th November 2005, 19 hours. The exhi­bi­tion is from 9th November till 6th January 2006

2006 (2.9.- end September) Group exhi­bi­tion, Soul Brother Shaheen, Connec­tion, Propeller, Berlin (D)

2008 (25.4. – 15.5) Who’s Boss: Boss Rune (T‑shirts) & Röslein Sprach… (DVD), group exhi­bi­tion, Open Space at the World-Ex-Posi­tion 08, Zentrum für Kunst­pro­jekte Vienna www​.open​space​-zkp​.org/… www​.meta​mute​.org/​en/no… (AT)

2015 (22.31.11) 6 of 19 coats from Tanya Ury’s Hair Shirt Army is presented in Daniel Spoerri’s group exhi­bi­tion Lieben und Haben – Lieb­haben, Sammeln und Sammler“ (Loving and Having – Cher­ishing, Collecting and Collec­tors). Spoerri’s 85th birthday exhi­bi­tion is in the Spoerri Exhi­bi­tion House, Hader­s­dorf am Kamp (A). The opening is Saturday 21st March 2015, at 4 pm www​.spoerri​.at/​a​k​tuell…

Festi­vals & Events

2005 (7.12.) Seminar & trailer Röslein Sprach…, Confer­ence: Jüdische Frauen in Geschichte und Gegen­wart (Jewish Women in the Past and Present), Konrad-Adenauer-Stiftung, Wesseling nr. Bonn (D)

2006 (27.2.) Peer Critique, seminar with video trailer Röslein Sprach…, Ben Uri Gallery, London (GB)

2006 (14. – 18.6.) Who’s Boss as archival mate­rial, Performing Rights Library a four-day confer­ence and accom­pa­nying programme of live events Perfor­mance Studies inter­na­tional (PSi) #12: Performing Rights, Queen Mary, Univer­sity of London (GB)

2006 (28.8. – 3.9.) Who’s Boss as Seminar presen­ta­tion, c.sides Festival, Jerusalem ICC (Inter­na­tional Conven­tion Center)(IL)

2007 (23.3.) On the online Femi­nist Art Base www​.brook​lyn​mu​seum​.org: Who’s Boss: Art Prize No.4, Who’s Boss: Your Rules, The Eliz­a­beth A. Sackler Center for Femi­nist Art, The Brooklyn Museum, New York (USA)

2007 (4. – 7.4) Who’s Boss power point presen­ta­tion Saturday, April 7th, 8:00 – 9:30 a.m., Salon K , Fashion, Appear­ance and Consumer Iden­tity, Popular Culture Asso­ci­a­tion, Thirty-seventh Annual Meeting, Boston Marriott, Boston (USA) www​.popu​lar​cul​ture​.org

2008 (16. – 18.5) Who’s Boss power point presen­ta­tion in German, Limmud-Festival Werbellinsee (Jugen­der­hol­ungs- und Begeg­nungsstätte) www​.limmud​.de (D)

2012 (6) Tanya Ury is the featured artist new works in the June edition online of Imag­i­na­tions: Journal of Cross-Cultural Image Studies, with Videos: Inti­macy, cement & dark room; a series of 17 concrete poems, the photo­graph Alibi­jude, Selec­tion from the Who’s Boss series, and 8 photos from Soul Brothers & Sisters, also 3 photos of Occupy in Stras­bourg, from the Fading into the Fore­ground series; further­more 5 Toned Poems (sound & music Kasander Nilist) and a peer review inter­view (text and Skype video) with Claude Desmarais, www​.csj​.ualberta​.ca/im… (CA)

2017 (3.7.) Personal state­ment by Tanya Ury on her Who’s Boss, nomen est omen artworks and Katy Deepwell’s n.paradoxa publi­ca­tion, on its 20th anniver­sary, at a special confer­ence on Local and Global Dynamics in Contem­po­rary Art at the Univer­sity of Middlesex, London (GB)


Publi­ca­tions & Press

2004 Ury´s web site and artworks Who´s Boss referred to on the Metzinger city home­page www​.metzingen​-zwangsar​beit​.de (D)

2004 (12.6.) Schwäbis­ches Tage­blatt, by Wolf­gang Alber (D) more

2004 (20.12.) Article by Matthias Reichelt: Coali­tion of Forget­ting, a Follow up on the Flick Collec­tion, Tageszeitung junge Welt — Daily News­paper: Young World (D)

2005 Cata­logue, Stets gern für Sie beschäftigt…” (“Always glad to be of service…”), Ifa Galerie, Berlin (D)

2005 Stets gern für Sie beschäftigt…” (“Always glad to be of service…”), german​gal​leries​.com (D)

2005 Stets gern für Sie beschäftigt…” (“Always glad to be of service…”), berlin​.art49​.com (D)

2005 Stets gern für Sie beschäftigt…” (“Always glad to be of service…”), Sarah Ross, AVIVA​-BERLIN​.de (D)

2005 krim­inelle firmen (crim­inal firms), schein­schlag Nr. 05/​05, Berlin (D) more

2005 (29.1.) Kulturkueche​.de (Culture Kitchen), Berlin (D)

2005 (27.1.) Article with photo still Röslein sprach…,: Wer das härende Hemd trägt (who wears the hair shirt), Berliner Zeitung news­paper, by (BLZ) (D) more

2005 (27.1.) Article Wer das härende Hemd trägt (who wears the hair shirt), berli​non​line​.de, by (BLZ) (D)

2005 (27.1.) Article: Verdi­enen Am Horror — Holo­caust: Stets gern für sie beschäftigt” (Gains by Horror — Holocaust:“Always glad to be of service…”) (rit.), Ticket — Das Magazin für die Stadt (The Maga­zine for the City), Berlin (D) more

2005 (27.1.) Stets gern für Sie beschäftigt…” (“Always glad to be of service…”), ifa-Ausstel­lung über Indus­trie und ihre NS — Auftraggeber” (ifa exhi­bi­tion about Industry and its National Socialist employers”, Kultur­radio, rbb​-online​.de Im Hörfunk, Berlin (D)

2005 (1.2.) Article: Grauen — nicht auf den ersten Blick — ifa-Galerie thema­tisiert Zusam­men­hänge zwis­chen Firmen und Naziver­brechen (Horror — not at first sight — ifa Gallery’s theme is the link between compa­nies and Nazi crimes) by Robert Meyer, Neues Deutsch­land, Berlin (D) more

2005 (2) Article: Heraus­ra­gend (Outstanding), by kbn. Tip — Berlin Magazin (D) more

2005 (10.2.) Schoa-Kunst in Berlin, Jüdische Allge­meine Wochen­zeitung (ja), (Art of the Shoah in Berlin, Jüdische Allge­meine Weekly) Berlin (D)

2005 (16.2.) Article: Es fährt ein Bus nach Sach­sen­hausen — Die dunkle Seite von Hugo Boss (There’s a bus driving to Sach­sen­hausen — the dark side of Hugo boss), by Brigitte Werneburg, TAZ news­paper (D) more

2005 (18.2.) Article: Haut­naht — ifa-Galerie: auf den Spuren des Holo­caust (Skin Deep — ifa Gallery: In Search of Traces of the Holo­caust), by Jens Hinrichsen, Tagesspiegel, Berlin (D) more

2005 (25.2.) Review with photo still Röslein sprach…, Hugo’s dunklere Seite” (Hugo’s dark side) article by Martin Conrads, Netzeitung​.de, Voice of Germany (D) more

2005 (3) Article: Neue Liter­atur, Palästina Journal Nr. 61 (New Liter­a­ture, Pales­tine Journal No. 61), by Thea Geinitz (D) more

2005 (3) Article with photo still Röslein sprach…, by Martin Conrads Zitty Maga­zine, Berlin (D) more

2005 (3.3.) Mahnen und Erin­nern (Memo­rials and Remem­bering), Märkische Oderzeitung Frank­furter Stadt­bote News­paper (D)

2005 (7.3.) Article Röslein sprach…, Geld stinkt eben doch — Voll waren die Auftrags­bücher zu Nazizeiten: Eine Ausstel­lung in der ifa-Galerie Berlin erin­nert an Prof­i­teure des Massen­mords (Money stinks after all – the order books were full during the Nazi times: an exhi­bi­tion in the ifa Gallery remem­bers those who prof­ited from mass murder) by Matthias Reichelt, Tageszeitung Junge Welt newpaper, Berlin (D) more

2005 (19. 05.) Ausstel­lung zur Vernich­tungspolitik (Exhi­bi­tion about exter­mi­na­tion poli­tics), Ostsee Zeitung​.de (news­paper) (D)

2005 (28.05.) Kunstausstel­lung in Prora über Indus­trie und Holo­caust (Art Exhi­bi­tion on Industry and the Holo­caust): Sechs Künstler zeigen Werke über die Verstrickung deutscher Firmen in den Massen­mord (six artists show work about the involve­ment of German firms in mass murder), Evan­ge­lis­cher Presse­di­enst (Prote­s­tand Press Service (D)

2005 (28.05.) Ausstel­lung klagt deutsche Firmen der Beteili­gung am Holo­caust an (Exhi­bi­tion accuses German firms of involve­ment in the Holo­caust), Märkische Oderzeitung (news­paper) (D)

2005 (29. 05.) news.rasender-reporter…

2005 (29. 05.) www​.doku​men​ta​tion​szen​trum​-prora​.de

2005 (29. 05.) www​.stoer​te​beker​.net

2005 (29. 05.) Prora: Ausstel­lung über die Indus­trie und den Holo­caust (exhi­bi­tion about Industry and the Holo­caust), Berliner Morgen­post (news­paper) (D)

2005 (30.5.) Article: Stets gern für sie beschäftigt” — Kunst und Zwangsar­beit im Doku­men­ta­tion­szen­trum Prora,(Always Glad to be of Service — Art and Forced Labour in the Docu­men­ta­tion Centre, Prora), by Andreas Küster­mann, Rügener Zeitung (Ruegen News­paper) (D) more

2005 (16.11.) article: Vergan­genes bleibt gegen­wärtig (the past remains with us) — Ausstel­lung zum Thema Holo­caust beim Kunstverein (Holo­caust exhi­bi­tion at the Kunstverein), by Eva Meyer, Ober­bayrisches Volks­blatt (news­paper) (D)

2006 www.esztertaska.blogte…

2006 (5.2006) Image of Beelze­bu­larin in Jahre­sausstel­lung cata­logue, Kunstverein Rosen­heim (Art Centre), (D)

2006 (3.11.) Who’s Boss and chil­drens’ work­shop, news­paper article with Photo, Ruhrnachrichten (Ruhr News) (D) more

2006 (4.11.) Who’s Boss and chil­drens’ work­shop, news­paper article with Photo, Stadt­spiegel Bochum (D)

2006 (4.11.) Who’s Boss, news­paper article with Photo, Bochum (D)

2008 (11) Who’s Boss: Hair Shirt and Röslein Sprach… discussed in article on Tanya Ury (in German) by Hartmut Bomhoff, Jüdische Zeitung (monthly), Berlin (D) article as PDF

www.j‑zeit.de

2013 (9) Performing the Jewish Body in Contem­po­rary Germany”, to be published disser­ta­tion on Esther Dischereit and Tanya Ury, Dr. Juli­ette Brungs, Univer­sity of Minnesota (USA)

2014 (February/​April) Flyer and poster for Who’s Boss: Hair Shirt Army in the Nazi Docu­men­ta­tion Centre, Cologne (D)

2014 (13.2) A Personal Memo­rial”, article on Who’s Boss: Hair Shirt Army in the Nazi Docu­men­ta­tion Centre, Cologne, by Susanne Kreitz in Kölner Stadt-Anzeiger (Cologne City Gazette) (D)

2014 (13.2) Hair Shirt Army in the Vault”, article on Who’s Boss: Hair Shirt Army in the Nazi Docu­men­ta­tion Centre, Cologne, by Susanne Schramm in Köln kompakt – Rheinische Post – Neuß-Greven­broicher Zeitung (Cologne compact – Rhine Post — Neuß-Greven­broich Paper) (D)

2014 (13.2) Not a vendetta against the Boss Company”, article on Who’s Boss: Hair Shirt Army in the Nazi Docu­men­ta­tion Centre, Cologne, in Kölnische Rund­schau (Cologne Review) (D)

2014 (13.2) Hugo Boss and the Nazi Past”, article on Who’s Boss: Hair Shirt Army in the Nazi Docu­men­ta­tion Centre, Cologne, by (ehu) in Köln Nachrichten (Cologne News) The Online News Maga­zine for Cologne (D)

2014 (26.2. – 26.3) Tanya Ury: Who’s Boss – Hair Shirt Army” article by Barbara Hess on the instal­la­tion at the Nazi Docu­men­ta­tion Centre, Cologne, in Stadtrevue (City Revue) (D)

2014 (18.4) Inter­view with Tanya Ury by Brigitte Lang and Rebecca Mann, on the instal­la­tion Who’s Boss: Hair Shirt Army in the Nazi Docu­men­ta­tion Centre, Cologne, including an extract of Ury’s concert perfor­mance burn out, with Suspended Beliefs: Tanya Ury (text/​voice), Gernot Bogumil (trumpet), Kasander Nilist (double bass), Hans Salz (percus­sion)), Good Friday at 9:04 pm, on Allewel­tonair (All the World on air), on civic radio, with Radio Cologne, 107,1 FM (D)

2014 (11.9) Inter­view with Tanya Ury by Verena Krippner (18.4.2014), online at this link: fish​ing​fore​mo​tions​.de/ (D)

2015 (23.1.) Arbeiten am Archiv” (Working on the Archive), 50-minute radio programme in the series Das Feature” (The Feature) on Tanya Ury by Dr. Astrid Nettling (director Burkhard Reinartz), from 8:10 till 9 pm on Friday 23rd January, Deutsch­land­funk (D) www​.deutsch​land​funk​.de…

2015 (22.31.11) Tanya Ury’s Hair Shirt Army are repre­sented on a double side in the cata­logue for Daniel Spoerri’s group exhi­bi­tion Lieben und Haben – Lieb­haben, Sammeln und Sammler“ (Loving and Having – Cher­ishing, Collecting and Collec­tors). Spoerri’s 85th birthday exhi­bi­tion is in the Spoerri Exhi­bi­tion House, Hader­s­dorf am Kamp (A) www​.spoerri​.at/​a​k​tuell…

down­load cata­logue: www​.spoerri​.at/​d​o​wnloa…

2015 (30.4.) The Art of Jewish Hair”, an article about Salon Style, a group show at the Studio Museum in Harlem, New York City, including a para­graph on Tanya Ury’s Hair Shirt, by Marjorie Ingall, in Tablet Maga­zine (USA) www​.tabletmag​.com/jewi…

Artist’s Writ­ings & Publi­ca­tions

2005 Thorn in the side, inter­view by Amin Farzanefar, with image Art Prize No. 4, Zeitschrift für Kultur Austausch (Maga­zine for Cultural Exchange) (D) more

2005 (27.1.) Inter­view by Julia Kaiser Deutsch­land Radio, Berlin (D) more

2005 (3.2.) Inter­view by Otto Langels Scala, WDR Radio, Cologne (D)

2005 (4.2.) Inter­view by Katrin Cüruk, TDI a, Life Style-Magazin, Kabelfernsehen (cable TV) DT1 Deutsch-Türkisches Fernsehen (German-Turkish TV), Berlin TV (D)

2005 (2) Inter­view by Von Oppen Deutsch­land­funk, WDR, Berlin (D)

2005 (1.4.) Who’s Boss project presented in Anti-Flick-Collec­tion Edition

2006 (26.8.) Inter­view with Aron Hadar and Who’s Boss: Art Prize No. 4, Ha’aretz (IL) of Texte zur Kunst, in the TAZ news­paper, Berlin (D)

2007 (7) Publi­ca­tion of Who’s Boss article in Translate/​Narrate issue, volume 20, n.paradoxa, Inter­na­tional Femi­nist Art Journal, London (GB)

web​.ukon​line​.co​.uk

2017 (1.8.) Personal state­ment by Tanya Ury on her Who’s Boss, nomen est omen artworks for Katy Deepwell’s n.paradoxa publi­ca­tion (GB), on its 20th anniver­sary online: www​.ktpress​.co​.uk/conf…

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